If the cookbook Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat were written about Fish Cheeks it would be titled “Citrus, Cilantro, Acid, Heat” (as evidenced by the moat of a cilantro lime broth surrounding the whole branzino).

This chic family-style Thai restaurant in both Noho and Williamsburg has collected well-earned accolades including 2 stars from the NYT and consistent rankings of top Thai restaurants in New York by various sources. I visited on a cold December night, looking for warmth and found it, but not in a cozy or comforting way. The warmth at Fish Cheeks zings and pops with chilis, tart and acidic flavors, and keeps you sitting up straight rather than sinking into the chair.

We started off with the Zabb Wings ($18), and when the word lime is mentioned twice in a menu description, believe it. They were smothered in seasoning, approaching them felt like licking the salt off of a margarita rim before taking a sip. Incredibly tasty citrus-y, zest-y, and- I mean this in the best way possible- reminiscent of a cool ranch Dorito seasoning coat. These were a totally different flavor profile from the Squid Ink Calamari ($22) that we also ordered to start, which was rich, black, thick, and balanced out deep umami and a slight sweetness from the fish sauce. The squid ink sauce was so rich I finished off a few final scoops with a spoon after we had completed all the fresh calamari.

For family-style mains we shared the Pork Belly ($28), Steamed Fish with Thai Herbs ($38), Tofu Pad Prik Khing ($37). The Pork Belly was heaping, and covered in chili and crispy garlic. It was incredibly filling, probably the most so for its price-point. The fish arrived with four spoons for the broth - an understanding touch. The de-boned fish sits atop a sea of lime and cilantro, powerfully tasty for being a fairly simply-constructed broth. Following a pattern, the acidic and cilantro combination is out of this world and carries the understated branzino far, sending it soaring to one of my favorite dishes of the night. The Tofu Pad Prik Khing red curry ranked 2 Peppers on the menu’s chili pepper spice-indication and was probably the hottest dish on our table, including the Pork Belly, which shared a ranking of 2 Peppers. While it packed in heat in underwhelmed in delivery. It was tofu, lime leaf, and green beans covered in a curry paste, rather than in a bowl of curry, though it did come with a small bowl of white rice.

Fish Cheeks captured my heart in the way that family-style restaurants often do, by facilitating conversation over shared plates, increasing interaction and laughter, hands and chopsticks bumping as you each reach for the last bite. But it really captured my stomach even more. If you crave an acidic flavor profile that can’t be missed (lime count in this review alone: 5), heat that will open up your dry winter throat chakra, and a memorable shared experience, look no further.

Fish Cheeks - 9/10

Hellbender - 8/10