The Lark Santa Barbara - 10/10

Santa Barbara is a place where it’s possible to have a perfect day à la “Barbie has a good day every day.” It’s weather, it’s walkable, it’s wine, what else can I say. But after an afternoon of drinking wine through the Funk Zone neighborhood, you’d be remiss to forget to eat (in more ways than one), and The Lark is the place that will tie the whole itinerary together with great good, ambience, and more wine.

Found nestled at the end of a garden hallway between other Funk Zone wine-tasting rooms, The Lark is a true light at the end of the tunnel. Upon entering the interior is designed thoughtfully in healthy balance between tile, wood, and metal, acknowledging and uplifting the neighborhood’s industrial heritage without making a theme out of it.

Service and diners were bustling at 7 pm when we arrived on a Wednesday night, it looked as lively as some New York restaurants do on weekends, but in sunny Santa Barbara you don’t feel tied down by things like “weekdays” and “weekends”.

The menu is Californian/American and heavily apparent that it is locally and thoughtfully grown and sourced, sections titled “From the Farm,” “From the Ocean,” and “From the Ranch” recall the relationship to the coastal California agriculture that runs through town in Santa Barbara.

We were hungry and thirsty and those needs did not go un-met. Upon arrival you’re greeted at the table with a bowl of dill pickle popcorn (complementary), adorned with dill and butter of course, as well as turmeric, garlic, and chili flakes. This bowl was such a treat and totally set a fun and funk-zone tone for the meal. We started with the crispy brussel sprouts ($17), which, if I can be so bold, were the best individual bite I have had in some time. They came in a simple-looking bowl with sesame seeds and lime atop the heap, but on the palate came alive with sesame oil and a light fish sauce, crackled with puffed wild rice, citrus-y lime and perfectly sweet tiny dates. The wild rice provided that delicious crunch that sesame seeds are too small to achieve, and in my notes I swear I wrote “the figs go crazy.” Almost inexplicably, with the citrus, sesame, and garum oil, the brussel sprouts transformed into a delectable and lime-y pad thai in my mouth! For the mains we ordered the New Orleans shrimp toast ($36) and the pork ribs ($42). The shrimp toast earned and honored the words New Orleans, fit with andouille sausage, sweet peppers, carmalized shrimp jus upon brioche toast it also shape-shifted as the brussels had, into a spoonful of rich gumbo flavors in every bite. The pork ribs were decorated with pickled onions and jalepeños galore, and rubbed with a dripping delicious barbecue sauce. They were cooked perfectly, soft and tender, I ate with my hands and lost grip of them several times in the best way possible.

Though we had spent the afternoon drinking wine and only had room for one glass of chilled red ($16), I eyed the cocktails on all of my neighbor’s tables. The bar seems to be taken as seriously as the kitchen here, with craft and artisinal cocktails that feature Tennesee whiskey, pisco, mezcal, and a wine list that highlights the Santa Barbara region.

The Lark achieves something really unique, shapeshifting for fun while staying true to its form. The Lark pulls off dishes that highlight Cajun, Mexican, and Texan flavors, while maintaining it’s proud identity as local Santa Barbara County and Coastal California culinary experience. It does this in two ways, one, it stays locally sourced and that shows. The shrimp toast may have the words “New Orleans” in front of it on the menu, but given their commitment to the local geography, I’d bet those sweet peppers came from Santa Barbara County. Two, the menu adjusts around the edges seasonally, while some tride and true plates stay the same, a restaurant that relies so heavily on its local region can’t accidentally stray too far from its identity when it is responding and reacting to the ecosystem in such a food, wine, and agriculture-loving place as Coastal California.

If you only have one night in Santa Barbara and you’ve already soaked up as much sun and wine as your body can handle, the Lark is the perfect place to recenter your palate and tie the experience together. By the end of the meal, you’ll feel like you took a tour through acres of farmland and coast, even if you never left the Funk Zone.